Category Archives: Lifehack

Modifications to make life more efficient

raised garden bed

DIY Raised Garden Bed Using Pocket Screws

5 Replies

There are a lot of benefits for having a garden, especially an edible one. You get to control the chemicals you expose your food to, and thus restrict the amount of chemicals you consume. From the garden to the table–you cannot get any fresher (nor greener) than that.

I had some success in planting directly in the ground. What I find troublesome about that is the weeding required. The buggers grow everywhere. The solution is to isolate the plant… a garden bed, aka an oversized garden pot. I did some research and decided to take this on as my next DIY project.

There are a lot of raised garden bed build types. You can construct it from stone, brick, wood, or simply a mound of dirt. For my project, I decided to go with a wooden bed. I was dissuaded from using pressure treated wood because of the likely hood the chemicals can leach into the soil and onto the plant (there’s a lot of debate about that NOT being an issue today, but I’m going to err on the side of caution). Cedar and redwood were highly recommended for its longevity. Redwood won out because I can easily find it here in the Bay Area. It is expensive though.

For the build, I wanted to keep it simple. I’m lacking in wood working tools and some of the plans/designs would be difficult for me to execute. A very typical and simple design just uses the planks/boards that comprise the width and length of the garden bed and scrap pieces of wood or posts (usually a 4×4). The posts or scrap wood would be used in the corners as nailing anchors for the sides of the garden bed. I didn’t want to go this route because I didn’t want to buy extra wood just for nailing purposes. It just seems like a waste of wood and more importantly waste of money. My solution was to use pocket screws. I saw them being used on PBS woodworking shows. They used pocket screws to join pieces together in furniture and cabinets. I figured why not for this application? After finding out they make weather resistant pocket screws, I green lighted this option. I decided to go with the Kreg pocket hole system because that was used on the PBS shows and it’s readily available online (links below) and in big box stores.

I did more research on pocket screw joinery. Knowing the thickness of the material you’re using is very important. For optimal bite, the screw should leave the board (that has the hole bored out) at or near the midway point of that board (https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/#tab1394). Therefore, positioning of the jig (device used to bore the pocket screw hole) is important. The thickness of the work material is also important in selecting the right screws to use. It needs to be long enough to bite into the connecting board. It is also important not to over torque the pocket screw. You don’t want to strip the wood threads. This is crucial info. I would hate to spend all the time and money to have the joint fail because I drilled the hole in the wrong position, stripped out the threads, or use the wrong size screw to connect the pieces together.

The material cost is approximately $65. The screws and plugs were relatively cheap. The large chunk is due to the wood choice: redwood. The cost can easily be reduced by using more common cheaper wood. The compromise is the longevity of the garden bed. A cheaper wood, like pine will rot faster.

The tool cost is hard to factor in. Yes, I did buy the Mini Kreg Jig, and the driver bit specifically for this project. However, its use is not only restricted for building raised garden beds. It’s a joinery system. I can use it to repair drawers, chairs, tables, etc. As with the bar clamps and combination square, it’s not a must have in the home DIY tool box, but there are multiple uses for those tools and therefore, it’s a safe buy.

Here’s the video I shot of the project and price breakdown (located below the video link):

Project tools & materials

Wood:
2x6x16 untreated redwood

  • I purchased two pieces
  • cut to four 4ft lengths
  • cut to four 2ft lengths
  • durable
  • common in California (where I’m from)
  • I paid approx $35 for both boards at Home Depot

Kreg:

Clamps:

  • Irwin Quick Grip ($20)
    • I used 2 clamps to lock the jig to the board when boring out the pocket holes and to lock the wood together when assembling the levels together
  • alternative: Kreg Locking Face Clamp ($20)
    • this type of clamp will lock the jig to the board better than the bar clamp

Combination Square

Soil:

  • top soil
    • 3 cu ft
    • $8.25 total
  • garden soil
    • 3 cu ft
    • $8.50 total
  • manure
    • 1 cu ft
    • $1.50

    Install of WeatherTech Window Deflector

    Leave a reply

    I ordered vent visors from WeatherTech for my Scion tC. WeatherTech brands them as “window deflectors”. I was going to go with the cheaper vent visor that attaches by adhesive tape. I was dissuaded by some forum posts stating the adhesive tape doesn’t stay stuck for long. The other option, but much more expensive alternative was the precisely molded in-channel visors sold by WeatherTech. The cost is around $75, which includes shipping.

    I hoping this investment will pay off. It’s near winter time; we’re finally getting some rain (I live in the Bay Area, and we’re suffering from a major draught — this is well needed stuff). The trouble with rain, no matter how small you crack open the window, you’ll still get water inside. With these installed, that shouldn’t be a problem anymore. I also plan on leaving it cracked open. I’m getting tired of the condensation fogging up my windshield after my late evening workout. Hopefully this will save on running the AC to defog the windows.

    I could have used these this past summer. I gets hot here. Not desert hot, but hot enough to steam when getting into the car after it’s been baking in the sun for 6 hours. I have a Broadway mirror attached to my rearview. When it gets too hot, any slight vibration from rough roads will cause it to move on its own. Really annoying when driving. I could crack my moonroof to help vent when parked, but find that leaves tend to blow inside when I do this. These vent visors should help with that.

    Is this a worthwhile investment? I’m kinda talking myself into thinking it is. The design is unobtrusive and install was easy. The question is, will it fulfill its purpose and help regulate the inside temperature and relative humidity? Dunno… have to wait and see.


    DIY Camera Dry Box

    DIY Camera Dry Box

    1 Reply

    I usually store my camera gear in camera bags. I store my primary shooter in a sling bag. I would also cram extra lenses, flash and whatever other gear that can fit into that same bag. All remaining gear would go into miscellaneous camera bags.

    I had to rethink this when I was searching for used lenses to put on my Canon EOS M (my primary video shooter). It’s a given to check the quality of the used lens. Does it have scratches? oily blades? fungus? Fungus… huh? After some searching, fungus primarily grows on the lens. Given the right conditions, it can spread. Can it be cleaned? By a professional. So what do you do? Prevention is the key. The fungus spores thrive in damp environment. I live in the Bay Area, but that’s no guarantee that fungus cannot contaminate my lenses. Keep in mind I’m still buying used lenses… dunno where they’ve been.

    One form of prevention requires storing the lenses and camera body in a cool and dry environment, the camera dry box. Professional camera dry boxes are way too expensive — from a couple of hundred dollars to well over a thousand. One solution to make your own camera dry box. That requires a storage container, a desiccant (to absorb the moisture within the container), and a hygrometer (to measure the relative humidity).

    Here’s a video of my DIY camera dry box:

    Here’s a price breakdown of my diy camera dry box:

    • 26.5 qt Ziploc Weathertight Box: ~$12 @ Walmart
      • Ziploc branded but manufactured by Iris USA
      • interior dimensions of the box: 18.25″(w) x 14.25″(l) x 6.25″(h)
        • it tapers, so subtract about 1 inch: 17.25″(w) x 13.25″(l) — base dimensions
    • 10.5 oz DampRid: ~$3 @ Home Depot
    • HTC-1 Digital Thermometer and Hygrometer: ~$5 @ eBay
      • any hygrometer will work
      • check out my post and video on how to check hygrometer accuracy
    • Drawer Liner: ~$5 @ Walmart
      • optional, but recommend
    • Sunflower Crackers: ~$5 @ asian grocery store
      • optional
      • recommend any secondary catch storage in case DampRid leaks

    Replace D Size Batteries with Eneloop

    4 Replies

    IMG_20141121_145703IMG_20141121_145827

    I have a motion sensor spotlight that uses 4 D-size batteries. The motion sensor trips a lot — too much. I changed the batteries 2 times since I got the unit (about 3 months ago). To save costs, I’ve replaced the alkaline batteries with rechargeable NiMH batteries.

    IMG_20141121_145635

     

    D-size batteries are considerably larger than AA. It’s not just wider, but taller. The insert compensates by having an extension contact at the top and a bottom spacer with another contact. The battery fits snuggly in its case.

    IMG_20141121_145906IMG_20141121_145927IMG_20141121_145950

    So far, the battery output is strong enough to power the sensor and the lights. Looks to be a win on this lifehack.

    IMG_20141121_150107IMG_20141121_150157

    Yukon Outfitters Mosquito Hammock (unboxing + suspension mod)

    Leave a reply

    I snagged this Yukon Outfitters Mosquito Hammock from Woot.com at a great price. Woot sells items for a limited time or until inventory is exhausted (which ever comes first). This deal was only limited for 1 day. It was too good to pass up.

    From the very beginning, I was going to replace the suspension system of the original hammock. I wanted to use the Dyneema rope I had on hand. I figured I would tie a stopper knot of some kind (or a bend knot at the ends) to make a loop. I did some research on Dyneema rope and found that knots tend to slip on Dyneema because the rope is slippery. Further research, suggested splicing an eye/loop instead of tying a knot. There are great references on how to do exactly that. I was able to splice my own with the tools I had on hand.

    I also opted to use two SMC Descending Rings for the suspension system. To connect the hammock suspension to the trees, I ordered some straps from strapworks.com. The straps will be connected to the SMC rings via garda hitch (you’ll need a pair of rings to deploy the garda hitch).

    I posted a video of the unboxing and the suspension modification. As stated above, I’m swapping the existing rope and carabiner suspension with a continuous loop of AmSteel Blue (Dyneema) rope and a pair of SMC Descending Rings.

    Knots used: lark’s head (cow hitch), prusik hitch, surgeon’s knot, figure-8


    Sugru + Neodymium magnet + sponge holder = movable sponge caddy

    Leave a reply

    I found this cool sponge caddy years ago. The caddy hung over the sink; it hooked over the edge of the sink. I could only reposition it on the left and right sides of the sick. The center wall dividing the double sink was too wide for the caddy to hook onto.

    Another problem to this caddy were the tight corners. Food particles from the sponge would get stuck. It was very difficult to clean.

    I happened on a different caddy design. The mounting mechanism relied on suction cups. This however didn’t work on my sink. That was the only flaw. I tried ceramic magnets, but that wasn’t strong enough. I then tried rare earth neodymium magnets. That was the perfect type. I used Sugru to affix the magnets to the caddy.

    I now have a movable sponge caddy — I can affix this to any wall of the sink.

    The sponge holder was around $6 from Target.
    The neodymium magnets was around $4 (1/2″; 6-pack) from Home Depot.

    Wrapping earbuds

    Leave a reply

    Coiling (or wrapping) earbuds seems to be a no-brainer. I used to wrap the earbud wires around my fingers in a circular coil. At the end of the wrap, I’d give a little slack and wrap that around the circular coil to keep the coil from unraveling.

    There are two problems to this technique.

    1. There is a chance of becoming knotted when unwound
      • this can easily happen when one of the working ends gets fed into one of the circular coils
    2. The cinching of the circular coil can cause issues with the wires of the earbuds
      • the tight loops can cause the earbud wire to unwind like a pig’s tail (little curls where the tight loops were located)
      • damage to the internal wire causing one or both buds to stop working
      • the wires connected to the jack can become loose; again resulting in one or both buds failing

    To tackle the first problem requires finding the right coiling method. Google search results showed the figure-8 coil to be effective and efficient. I’ve used this method for months. But I still secured the coiled earbuds with multiple tight loops and some half-hitches thrown in.

    When wrapping the rubber band on itself for a single pass is called a lark’s head (cow hitch). Wrapping it an additional time is a prusik hitch (prusik knot).

    I had to find another solution to locking/securing the fig-8 coil:

    * This second video shows an updated way of applying the rubber band to the fig-8 coil: