Monthly Archives: December 2014

factory image errors

Android errors: archive does not contain ‘boot.sig’ & archive does not contain ‘recovery.sig’

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I tried updating my Nexus 5 with the latest Lollipop 5.0.1 version. My phone is rooted, so I can’t use the OTA (over-the-air) updater. I attempted to use the same process that I used to update from Kit Kat (4.4.4) to Lollipop 5.0. I’ll recap the process:

  1. I downloaded the 5.0.1 factory image (hammerhead) from https://developers.google.com/android/nexus/images
  2. unpackaged the .tgz file
  3. executed the flash-all.sh program (note: I’m on a Mac)

During step three, I encountered a problem:

archive does not contain 'boot.sig'
archive does not contain 'recovery.sig'
fastboot(99706) malloc: *** mmap(size=1006034944) failed (error code=12)
*** error: can't allocate region
*** set a breakpoint in malloc_error_break to debug
failed to allocate 1005027540 bytes
error: update package missing system.img

I thought this was due to my phone being encrypted. I tried to troubleshoot, but I ended up soft-bricking my phone. I got myself up and running by flashing the Kit Kat 4.4.4 factory image. I also reverted back to the 5.0 Lollipop backup I made before attempting the update. I later figured out, this is not an encryption issue (I was able to update my encrypted Nexus 7 to Lollipop 5.0.1 using flash-all.sh program).

From a forum post on XDA (link here) suggested flashing the files within the image-XXX.zip individually (comment from manasgirdhar). I found another forum that clearly state the steps and flashing order of factory images. The steps are found here (drill down to “Method 2”). Quick recap of the process:

  1. expand the image-hammerhead-lrx22c.zip file
  2. flash the bootloader.img file
  3. flash the radio.img file
  4. flash the system.img file
  5. flash the userdata.img file
  6. flash the boot.img file
  7. erase the cache
  8. from the phone, boot into Android recovery
  9. from recovery, select “Wipe data/factory data reset”
  10. reboot

I got hung up on step 9. I held down the Volume Up + Power buttons too long and ended up rebooting to the system. The system won’t boot until you do the data wipe step. The trick is to push the Volume Up + Power buttons simultaneously or, push and hold Volume Up, then press the Power button, making sure not to hold the buttons down too long. If you get stuck in the boot animation, just boot back up into bootloader (hold down: Volume Up + Volume Down + Power), then continue with step 8.

As with any system mod you perform on your phone, you and only you are responsible for the outcome. So, please be very careful. If you do not understand how to flash a file from your computer to your Android phone, then you shouldn’t attempt to do any of the stuff I’ve posted here. I posted procedural steps not literal computer commands. Simply copying and pasting the steps into a command prompt will not work. If you decide to proceed with “Method 2”, please follow the procedure thoroughly as stated in the XDA forum post.

Squeaking Noise & DIY Cowl Removal on 2006 Scion tC

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I had a crack on the windshield that required replacement. I filed my claim with my insurance company and found an auto glass shop through Yelp. I wanted to get this resolved as soon as possible, but the weather forecast would make this extremely difficult. I don’t have a covered driveway, so I opted to get this replaced at the auto glass shop location.

crack on windshield

crack on windshield

crack on windshield

crack on windshield

crack on windshield

crack on windshield

long crack on windshield

The crack on the windshield is about 10.5″ long

Shortly after the install, I started hearing a high pitched squeaking noise. This is only really apparent on rough roads. There’s a lot of construction going on near my home, so rough roads are more the norm than the exception.

I thought this was due to the replacement glass. It could be rubbing on the frame or some other part of the cowl area (the perceived location of the noise). I checked the cowl (pushed on in it from the outside) and it seemed to have some play/movement. Could this be the cause?

I called the auto glass shop. We scheduled to have an on-sight visit. The plan was to re-seat the replacement glass (Pilkington Solar Laminated AS-1 DOT177 M65).

Pilkington replacement windshield

Pilkington Solar replacement windshield

I drove the technician around, using the same route as posted in the previous video, so he could hear the noise first hand. When the windshield was removed, there appeared to be no apparent wear; no unusual shavings, highlights, etc. The technician banged on all components near and around the windshield frame. He was unable to replicate the noise. He reinstalled the windshield.

I let the car sit for awhile so the adhesive could properly set and cure. Later that night, I heard the same noise, on the same road conditions. I did some searching and found a forum that suggested adding foam to the cowl area. The cowl was left alone during the reinstallation of the windshield. This is the video of the foam installation on the cowl.

That didn’t fix it. I then tried adding foam to the inside of the car, between the glass and the dashboard. Again, targeting the area where the noise is coming from. Still no fix.

The noise is coming from the center part of the cowl area. We ruled out the cowl and the engine compartment in general. Therefore, the noise must come from the other side of the firewall. I checked the radio. I pushed on the upper part (as highlighted in yellow in the picture below). I drove the same route, and guess what?… that’s it! The radio housing and/or the center vent is causing the noise. Something is loose back there.

Scion tC stock radio

highlighting where I pushed on the stock radio

This is good news. The noise is more of an annoyance. It doesn’t effect the running of the car, or the convenience of cabin (air, radio, etc). Nor does it effect the safety of the car; it’s not windshield related. This is an annoyance I’ll learn to live with. I’m not willing to pay for the fix, nor am I willing to personally take the dash apart.


Install of WeatherTech Window Deflector

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I ordered vent visors from WeatherTech for my Scion tC. WeatherTech brands them as “window deflectors”. I was going to go with the cheaper vent visor that attaches by adhesive tape. I was dissuaded by some forum posts stating the adhesive tape doesn’t stay stuck for long. The other option, but much more expensive alternative was the precisely molded in-channel visors sold by WeatherTech. The cost is around $75, which includes shipping.

I hoping this investment will pay off. It’s near winter time; we’re finally getting some rain (I live in the Bay Area, and we’re suffering from a major draught — this is well needed stuff). The trouble with rain, no matter how small you crack open the window, you’ll still get water inside. With these installed, that shouldn’t be a problem anymore. I also plan on leaving it cracked open. I’m getting tired of the condensation fogging up my windshield after my late evening workout. Hopefully this will save on running the AC to defog the windows.

I could have used these this past summer. I gets hot here. Not desert hot, but hot enough to steam when getting into the car after it’s been baking in the sun for 6 hours. I have a Broadway mirror attached to my rearview. When it gets too hot, any slight vibration from rough roads will cause it to move on its own. Really annoying when driving. I could crack my moonroof to help vent when parked, but find that leaves tend to blow inside when I do this. These vent visors should help with that.

Is this a worthwhile investment? I’m kinda talking myself into thinking it is. The design is unobtrusive and install was easy. The question is, will it fulfill its purpose and help regulate the inside temperature and relative humidity? Dunno… have to wait and see.


DIY Camera Dry Box

DIY Camera Dry Box

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I usually store my camera gear in camera bags. I store my primary shooter in a sling bag. I would also cram extra lenses, flash and whatever other gear that can fit into that same bag. All remaining gear would go into miscellaneous camera bags.

I had to rethink this when I was searching for used lenses to put on my Canon EOS M (my primary video shooter). It’s a given to check the quality of the used lens. Does it have scratches? oily blades? fungus? Fungus… huh? After some searching, fungus primarily grows on the lens. Given the right conditions, it can spread. Can it be cleaned? By a professional. So what do you do? Prevention is the key. The fungus spores thrive in damp environment. I live in the Bay Area, but that’s no guarantee that fungus cannot contaminate my lenses. Keep in mind I’m still buying used lenses… dunno where they’ve been.

One form of prevention requires storing the lenses and camera body in a cool and dry environment, the camera dry box. Professional camera dry boxes are way too expensive — from a couple of hundred dollars to well over a thousand. One solution to make your own camera dry box. That requires a storage container, a desiccant (to absorb the moisture within the container), and a hygrometer (to measure the relative humidity).

Here’s a video of my DIY camera dry box:

Here’s a price breakdown of my diy camera dry box:

  • 26.5 qt Ziploc Weathertight Box: ~$12 @ Walmart
    • Ziploc branded but manufactured by Iris USA
    • interior dimensions of the box: 18.25″(w) x 14.25″(l) x 6.25″(h)
      • it tapers, so subtract about 1 inch: 17.25″(w) x 13.25″(l) — base dimensions
  • 10.5 oz DampRid: ~$3 @ Home Depot
  • HTC-1 Digital Thermometer and Hygrometer: ~$5 @ eBay
    • any hygrometer will work
    • check out my post and video on how to check hygrometer accuracy
  • Drawer Liner: ~$5 @ Walmart
    • optional, but recommend
  • Sunflower Crackers: ~$5 @ asian grocery store
    • optional
    • recommend any secondary catch storage in case DampRid leaks